VILLA PANZA
WEBSITE: WWW.FONDOAMBIENTE.IT
LOCATION: VILLA PANZA, PIAZZA LITTA, 1, 21100 VARESE VA, ITALY
NEAREST AIRPORTS: MALPENSA AIRPORT, MILAN, 45 MINUTES DRIVE
If there is a way to make a delightful drive through the Milanese countryside even more enjoyable, it is by stopping at Villa Panza for lunch and a visit to its notable collection of American minimalist art. Overlooking the town of Varese, the villa is an eighteenth century Italian mansion surrounded by manicured topiary gardens. And Restaurant Luce, serving local delicacies, will not disappoint.
The villa was originally built in the eighteenth century by Marquis Paolo Antonio Menafoglio, who chose this spot on Biumo Hill to construct his residence. It passed through a few other owners before being acquired in the 1950s by Count Giuseppe Panza, who began filling the property with art, gradually transforming its character and building its international reputation.
Count Panza was wise not to alter the fabric of the building itself, instead choosing to balance the contemporary with the classical architecture. He dedicated the Stable Block (deceptively large despite its modest exterior) to site specific commissions from artists such as Dan Flavin, James Turrell and Robert Irwin, creating a kind of temple to light art. Walking through it is to be bathed in color and enveloped by nothingness, both spiritual and quietly unsettling.
The gardens too have been beautifully maintained, offering sweeping views of the town below and distant hills. Artworks are thoughtfully placed throughout the grounds, including recent additions by Sean Scully, whose glass panes, originally created for the Greenhouse as part of a temporary exhibition, have now been permanently installed, and Robert Wilson’s bespoke shed. You can stroll through the grounds and breathe in the fresh country air before heading to the restaurant, Luce, for a bowl of bean stew and fresh pasta.
It might seem curious to house a collection of American minimalist art in an Italian villa, but once experienced, the combination makes perfect sense. The work transcends borders and time, blending seamlessly with its surroundings, none of it feels dated. Alongside the permanent collection, the foundation also stages temporary exhibitions to encourage repeat visits and offer fresh interpretations of the works. They host events and activities as well, such as birdwatching or talks, so it is worth checking the website before your visit to see what else might be on and to book your entry.
