CASTELLO DI RIVOLI
WEBSITE: WWW.CASTELLODIRIVOLI.ORG
LOCATION: PIAZZA MAFALDA DI SAVOIA, 10098 RIVOLI, TORINO, ITALY
NEAREST AIRPORTS: TORINO AIRPORT, 30 MINUTES DRIVE
The architecture of Castello di Rivoli, home to the Museo d’Arte Contemporanea of Turin, is perhaps the most striking feature you will notice as you drive up above the city of Rivoli to visit. First mentioned in the ninth century, the site has been built, rebuilt, burnt, bombed, abandoned, collapsed and destroyed by passing armies for more than ten centuries. Rather than deny its history, the modern restoration embraces its scars, incorporating the partial ruins and unfinished rehabilitation attempts to create a maze of history that tells a tale of extraordinary prosperity and careless destruction.
Left: Castello di Rivoli exterior. Right: the Manica Lunga building.
Without delving too deeply into the history of the building itself, which can be read on the museum’s website, the real draw for visitors today is the contemporary art museum, which opened in 1984. It is a brilliant institution whose mission is to engage both local and international audiences in a deeper understanding of our present times through art and culture, while contributing to the social development of the surrounding region. What I particularly appreciate about this space is that it achieves its mission without being preachy, a fault to which many museums now fall victim.
Left: Manica Lunga building. Right: Interior view of Manica Lunga
The museum has a strong collection, displayed in creative ways across the salons turned galleries, the Manica Lunga (long galleries, literally translating to ‘long sleeve’), and the surrounding grounds. It has continuously presented innovative exhibitions and radical art performances, all while remaining sensitive to the unique castle that hosts it. The collection includes artists such as Gilbert and George, Nan Goldin, Mona Hatoum, Pierre Huyghe, William Kentridge and At Atkin, to name just a few.
Interior gallery views in the main palace building.
The exhibition program has been superbly executed, featuring shows that address current global issues, while also exposing the local population to the richness of the international art scene through exhibitions such as the Sigg Collection. At the same time, it does not shy away from presenting artists whose practice is more focused on art itself than on politics, such as in the recent exhibition on Giorgio Morandi. It strikes a great balance between conceptual art and more painterly or sculptural works, a fusion of politics and philosophy.
Interior gallery views in the main palace building.
Castello di Rivoli has also recently acquired the estate of Francesco Federico Cerruti, located a short drive from the main museum building. Free shuttles are available to transport you to the house, where you can see Cerruti’s home preserved as he left it, containing works ranging from the mediaeval period to contemporary times. Cerruti was largely a recluse, so very few people saw the collection during his lifetime. Playing the voyeur is half the fun, but there are true gems dotted throughout, as well as a rather tempting wine cellar.
The Cerruti Collection, interior and exterior.
Next time you are in Turin, I highly recommend spending a few hours at Castello di Rivoli. It is imaginative as well as beautiful, with lovely views and plenty to stimulate the mind. Every Saturday and Sunday, a free shuttle connects Piazza Castello in central Turin with Castello di Rivoli, stopping en route at Porta Susa (Piazza Diciotto Dicembre) railway station. Godere!