FONDATION CARMIGNAC
WEBSITE: WWW.FONDATIONCARMIGNAC.COM
LOCATION: PORQUEROLLES ISLAND, FRANCE
NEAREST AIRPORTS: MARSEILLE PROVENCE AIRPORT, 2 HOUR DRIVE
Porquerolles Island has now been firmly put on the map. It might not have been the first place that came to mind when thinking of the Côte d’Azur, but with steep cliffside coasts accessible only by hiking on the southern side, and turquoise, crystal clear waters on the northern, along with the recent addition of the Fondation Carmignac, it certainly deserves a place in your top ten.
Photo: Lionel Barbe
Nils Udo. La Couvée, 2018. Photo: Nils Udo
The foundation was established by Edouard Carmignac, an international asset manager with a passion for the arts. He discovered Porquerolles when attending a wedding on the remote island and loved it so much that he, naturally, bought a substantial portion of it. The foundation itself is dedicated to showcasing the corporate art collection, which usually resides in Paris, as well as supporting an annual Photojournalism Award. The collection comprises over 300 works and includes pieces by Warhol, Basquiat and Roy Lichtenstein, all of whom were friends of Edouard’s in the 1980s. They were instrumental in sparking his passion for art and, once he had the means, his collecting habit.
The island measures less than five square miles and is home to just over 200 inhabitants. So when I say remote, I really do mean remote.
The main pavilion and gallery are part of a subterranean structure that extends beneath a converted former farmhouse. As the island is a protected National Park, Carmignac had little choice but to build downwards, but the design is so well executed that you hardly feel underground. This is helped in no small part by the ‘pool ceiling’ in the main gallery, which allows plenty of natural light to filter through.
What might strike visitors as unusual is that you are asked to remove your shoes upon entering the gallery. When I first encountered this, I must admit I was somewhat irritated, as I was not particularly keen to take my shoes off. But as I glided over the pristinely clean floor, admiring the artwork, I began to appreciate the quiet and the sense of reverence that being barefoot created. There was no clicking of heels on hard floors, and the cool stone was surprisingly pleasant underfoot. My advice: relax and go with it.
Surrounding the gallery are 15 hectares of parkland, landscaped by designer Louis Benech, whose light touch preserves the island’s wild atmosphere. “This is a protected site, so it is only right that we respect the environment,” Carmignac explains. “We had an ecologist spend an entire year here to ensure we would protect the tiny pathways used by turtles and preserve some very rare orchids that grow only in this part of the world.”
In addition to the mini turtles and flora, the park is home to over 15 site specific sculptures by artists such as Ugo Rondinone, Ed Ruscha, Jaume Plensa and Tom Friedman, to name a few. These works are scattered across the grounds, making for a rewarding walk as you explore. The landscape is also varied, taking you through woodland, open fields and, a personal favourite, a bamboo maze.
There is a small organic coffee shop near the entrance, but you may prefer to head back to the main village near the port, where you will find a few good options for lunch. Better still, make a weekend of it and stay on to enjoy the natural beauty and quiet charm that Porquerolles has to offer.
Left: Jeppe Hein, Path of Emotions, 2018. Right: Jaume Plensa, Les trois alchimistes, 2018
