FONDATION CARMIGNAC
WEBSITE: WWW.FONDATIONCARMIGNAC.COM
LOCATION: PORQUEROLLES ISLAND, FRANCE
NEAREST AIRPORTS: MARSEILLE PROVENCE AIRPORT, 2 HOUR DRIVE
Porquerolles Island, a Mediterranean enclave off the Côte d’Azur, is home to Fondation Carmignac, one of Europe’s most compelling destinations for experiencing contemporary art in place. Established by collector Édouard Carmignac to share his international collection, the foundation offers a way of encountering art that is shaped by landscape, light, and travel rather than by the conventions of the museum.
Photo: Lionel Barbe
Nils Udo. La Couvée, 2018. Photo: Nils Udo
The galleries are located beneath a former Provençal farmhouse, creating a calm and contemplative setting for works by artists such as Jean-Michel Basquiat, Andy Warhol, and Roy Lichtenstein. Surrounding the galleries are fifteen hectares of landscaped grounds designed by Louis Benech, where sculptures and installations unfold gradually through the natural environment.
Porquerolles measures less than five square miles and is home to just over two hundred inhabitants. Remote here really does mean remote.
The main pavilion and galleries form part of a subterranean structure beneath the converted farmhouse. As the island is a protected national park, the foundation had little choice but to build downwards. The result is so carefully executed that you are rarely aware you are underground. This is helped by the pool ceiling in the main gallery, which allows natural light to filter gently into the space.
One aspect of the visit that may surprise some is the request to remove your shoes before entering the galleries. When I first encountered this, I was not entirely convinced. Yet as I moved quietly across the pristinely clean floor, absorbed in the artwork, I began to appreciate the stillness and sense of reverence this creates. Without the sound of heels on stone, the space feels hushed, and the cool surface underfoot is unexpectedly pleasant. My advice is simple: relax and go with it.
Beyond the galleries, the surrounding parkland preserves the island’s wild character. As Carmignac explains, “This is a protected site, so it is only right that we respect the environment. We had an ecologist spend an entire year here to ensure we would protect the tiny pathways used by turtles and preserve some very rare orchids that grow only in this part of the world.”
Alongside its flora and wildlife, the park is home to more than fifteen site specific works by artists including Ugo Rondinone, Ed Ruscha, Jaume Plensa, and Tom Friedman. These sculptures are scattered across the grounds, making the walk through woodland, open fields, and a bamboo maze especially rewarding.
There is a small organic café near the entrance, though you may prefer to return to the village by the port, where there are several good options for lunch. Better still, consider staying overnight to enjoy the natural beauty and quiet charm that Porquerolles has to offer.
Left: Jeppe Hein, Path of Emotions, 2018. Right: Jaume Plensa, Les trois alchimistes, 2018
