PARIS
Where to start? With the rise of New York as the centre of contemporary art in the 50s and then London in the 90s, Paris momentarily lost its artistic crown during the late 20th century. However, with the popularity of FIAC! art fair, and new spaces opening up by collectors and fashion based foundations, Paris has regained its momentum. Vive la Paris.
CENTRE GEORGES POMPIDOU
WEBSITE: WWW.CENTREPOMPIDOU.FR
VISIT TIME: 1-2 HOURS
The building with its ‘kishkas‘ hanging out, it is the seminal achievement of architects Richard Rogers and Renzo Piano in the Beaubourg area of the 4th arrondissement of Paris. It houses a library and research centre, but most importantly for me, the Musée National d’Art Moderne. The museum has the second largest collection of modern art in the world and is a marvel and testament to great collecting. The collection is divided over two floors (4th and 5th of the centre), with a further floor (6th) dedicated to temporary, often monographic shows. Don’t miss Brancusi’s studio in the courtyard just outside the main entrance.
FIAC!
WEBSITE: WWW.FIAC.COM
VISIT TIME: MID-OCTOBER, 4-5 HOURS
The main annual art fair of Paris, Fiac! features international galleries and strikes a good balance of established major artists, and the new cutting-edge artists at the start of their career. Located in the very grand Grand Palais, it is a good time to visit Paris, particularly for the Hors Les Murs programme where galleries and artists are granted permission to instal sculptures and installations, do performances, and screen films, at iconic sites throughout the city.
LOUIS VUITTON FOUNDATION
WEBSITE: WWW.FONDATIONLOUISVUITTON.FR
VISIT TIME: 2 HOURS
Frank Gehry’s building looks like a spaceship landed in the middle of Bois de Boulogne. It was commissioned and built to house the LVMH private collection and foundation. Louis Vuitton has long had a brand associating with artists and this recent manifestation, dedicated to contemporary art, is an exciting new space in the North West corner of Paris. As well as excellent temporary exhibitions, the collection of Bernard Arnault, one of the most distinguished collectors of our times, is on display. The contrast of the park and sheets of curved glass is a joy to behold. Look out for the Olafur Eliasson installation on the lower ground floor.
PALAIS DE TOKYO
WEBSITE: WWW.PALAISDETOKYO.COM
VISIT TIME: 1 HOUR
The brainchild of Nicolas Bourriaud (Relational Aesthetics) and Jérome Sans, this is the largest centre for contemporary art in France, and apparently the world. Dedicated entirely to temporary exhibitions, the curators invite the most cutting edge, transgressive, and challenging art and artists to make up the programme of exhibitions of all shapes and sizes. A space that always feels in flux, it can be hit or miss, but you will most certainly see something ‘different’ when you visit. Go with an open mind.
ROPAC PARIS PANTIN
WEBSITE: ROPAC.NET
TIME TO VISIT: 20 MINUTES, 1 HOUR INCLUDING TRAVEL.
Not entirely satisfied with his gallery in central Paris, Ropac opened a second space in Pantin, roughly 20-25 minutes drive from the center. The Marais space is indeed lovely but beyond whim, there is the practical side where Pantin can accommodate the more ambitiously sized paintings and sculptures of the many artists who he represents. So it is far but it tends to be entirely worth it. He even very kindly added a small coffee shop where one can get a coffee and quiche before heading back to the centre. Ropac represents some of the most important living artists, such as Kiefer, Baselitz, Gormley, and more. He also shows the works of Joseph Boyce, for whom he worked as an intern in his early years. So a bit of a legend really.